I don’t often like to get into comparisons between San Diego and our bolder, brassier, and eminently more congested neighbor counties to the North, but the one thing that San Diego County seems to lack in comparison with Los Angeles, San Bernadino, and Riverside Counties are those gut-wrenching, knee-busting, quad-scorching climbs into the higher elevations. It’s true that San Diego County tops out at a relatively modest 6,532′ at Hot Springs Mountain, but that does not mean you cannot indulge your masochistic streak with some truly grueling and rugged hikes in the local mountains.

The view northeast toward San Gorgonio and San Jacinto

The Agua Tibia Loop is one of three behemoth hikes in the Palomar District of Cleveland National Forest. The other two – Eagle Crag and High Point – occur nearby. Both Eagle Crag and Agua Tibia dip into the Agua Tibia Wilderness, which was the first and largest federal wilderness established in San Diego County. The full hike presented here is one of the most challenging and strenuous in San Diego. This write-up will provide three different options to enjoy this remote, rugged, and beautiful corner of the county.

Mt. San Jacinto

Agua Tibia Mountain occupies the northernmost block of the Palomar Mountain range. Agua Tibia Peak is lower in elevation than the Palomar and Aguanga blocks, and it scrapes, but does not quite reach, 5,000’. The lower elevations of this hike occur on the east side of the range, mostly below 4,000’, which is the general threshold for snowlines and conifers. This means that this hike can be dangerously hot during the summer and should therefore be avoided out of season. It is important not to confuse the association with Palomar as similarity to Palomar Mountain State Park’s gentle and temperate landscapes as the Dripping Springs and Wild Horse Trails generally travel through terrain almost entirely absent of the cool, damp forests a few miles to the south.

Mt. San Gorgonio

The three options for this hike include taking the Dripping Springs Trail alone, either as a day hike or as an out-and-back backcountry camping trip; second, stopping at the campsite at the end of the Dripping Springs Trail for overnight camping and then continuing around the summit on Palomar Magee Road while returning down the Wild Horse Trail for a two day hike; and, third, if you’re a real glutton for punishment, completing the entire hike in one very long, very sweaty day.

Hot air baloon

The Dripping Springs Trail starts out from the back of Dripping Springs Campground, which is operated by Cleveland National Forest. The trail quickly crosses the usually dry Arroyo Seco before climbing to a junction with the Wild Horse Trail. Remember this junction because in 18.5 miles, if you’re taking the loop, you will end up back at this spot. Following the junction, the trail will take you switchbacking up a hill on a steady, but reasonable grade. As you climb, be sure to look back frequently as excellent views of SoCal’s twin giants, Mt. San Gorgonio and Mt. San Jacinto, open up to the north above sun-baked Anza Valley and the city of Temecula. These views will be with you for the duration, and they are especially rewarding when the air is clear and both peaks are snow-bound.

Arroyo Seco near the trailhead

Ceanothus

The climbing will continue at a fairly reasonable pace over the next 6 miles before reaching the Agua Tibia Crest. During that time, you will dip into a flat-ish valley, where you will find the remains of some truly magnificent specimens of Manzanita and ribbonwood. These specimens had managed to grow to climax stage, which for Manzanita and ribbonwood takes on tree-like proportions, as a result of a lack of fire over nearly 100 years. However, the Vail Fire of 1989 roared through this area and incinerated the vegetation, as fires are wont to do. A few specimens remain, but it should be noted that Manzanita, which is almost explosive due to its high concentration of oils, is never meant to live for long. The plant has adapted exceptionally well to fire so that when a fire burns through, it destroys its foliage, but not its root system. The plant will quickly re-sprout from its still living root system and will be good as new within ten years.

Yerba Santa

You’ll start to gain a good view of the Agua Tibia Peak as you climb out of this shallow valley. You’ll see a sparse forest of bigcone Douglas fir and Coulter pine adorning the top. Coulter pine, which has the largest and heaviest of all pine cones, will become more and more present as you begin climbing the next ridge toward the summit crest. This pine species grows in small clumps or individually among chaparral in the higher elevations. These sparse pines will provide some of the first shade since the very start of the trail. Don’t get too comfortable beneath them, though. Their massive, barbed pine cones have a reputation as “widow-makers.”

Agua Tibia Mountain

The ridge begins to flatten out and approach the summit. As it does, you will pass a few flat spots shaded beneath coast live oaks that will make excellent, albeit dry, campsites for the night. A visitor permit is required to camp up here, and to make a reservation, the Cleveland National Forest’s Visitor’s Guide recommends that you call the Forest Service’s reservation system 1-877-444-6777. Not far beyond these campsites, you will come to a junction with Palomar Magee Road, which marks the end of the Dripping Springs Trail and the end of the line for more casual hikers. Even “casual” hikers will note that they have already hiked about 7 miles, gaining 3,200’ and will have another 7 miles and 3,200’ of descending to go. If this is as far as you’re interested in going, take some time to enjoy the view over North County (marine layer permitting) and north toward the Santa Ana and San Gabriel Mountains.

Coulter Pine

For those continuing on, bear left onto Palomar Magee Road. This “road” was once a much wider pathway allowing vehicles to traverse the Palomar Range’s crest from the observatory to Agua Tibia. Since the introduction of wilderness status, which prohibits mechanized vehicles of any kind, this trail has attained the proportions of a foot path, although the road bed is still in evidence. The next three miles are the highlight of this hike, as they pass around the west face of Agua Tibia, allowing excellent views toward the coast along with the densest thickets of trees. There are a few spots around here that could make good campsites, and the air here is cooler and more humid owing to the stronger marine influence from the ocean only 40 miles away. It’s not uncommon to observe this sea of clouds “splashing” up against this side of the mountain.

Looking west from the end of the Dripping Springs Trail

The trail will rise to a point where there’s a faint use trail to the summit. It’s easy to miss, and since the summit’s views aren’t much better than what you’ve already seen, there’s no major need to bag it unless you consider not bagging a peak to be a hike wasted. After reaching the trail’s high point around 4,700’, the trail will begin a long, gradual descent toward Crosley Saddle. Crosley Saddle is roughly the halfway point of this hike at 10 miles. This low point not only separates the Agua Tibia and Aguanga blocks of the range, but it also features a junction offering two separate destinations. If you continue straight on Palomar Magee, you will eventually arrive near Eagle Crag with the option of continuing on to beautiful Cutca Valley (16 miles away). The trail branching left is the Wild Horse Trail, which will eventually return you to the trailhead. It’s likely best to save Cutca Valley and Eagle Crag for another hike, which I feel is one of the most satisfying and spectacular in San Diego.

Looking south toward Eagle Crag

A recent fire burned through Crosley Saddle, incinerating most of the vegetation and giving way to a number of fire-following shrubs. Of these shrubs, the one to watch out for is Poodle Dog Bush, which causes a nasty allergic reaction similar to, but possibly worse than poison oak. It grows in abundance, but it is easy to avoid if one is aware of its appearance and distinct musky smell, which reminds most people of marijuana. The burn zone does not last long before giving way to a spectacularly dense forest of canyon live oaks within a gorge that drains the saddle. The shade here is thick, and this is the coolest and most comfortable section of the entire hike. It’s also quite beautiful in this rather severe ravine, making this a nice place to stop if you want to rest your legs and enjoy a snack. Unfortunately, I didn’t notice many flat spots for camping, so you may not be able to linger for long.

As George Harrison said, All Things Must Pass , and around 11-12 miles the trees thin out and disappear as the ravine bottoms out. From here, it is a long, hot, sweaty, and somewhat monotonous return journey over undulating hills covered in chaparral. There is nothing bad about any of this, but it is a mildly unfortunate way to conclude a hike. To make matters worse, a creek bubbles tantalizingly close, but out of reach, just when you might want to dip your head in a cold bucket of water. As you plod along, you might just enjoy the rare sensation of a hike-induced trance, in which you lose track of time due to the rhythm of your footfalls and the stillness in your mind. This has only happened a few times for me, and always on a monotonous stretch of trail, but it is a curious and fascinating experience to reward the occasional drudgery.

High Point, Palomar Mountain

It’s not all sun-blasted slopes and redundant undulations here. There are numerous patches of riparian vegetation along the ravines that drain the slopes of the mountain. Here, you’re likely to find patches of shady live oaks for a nice rest, and, if there has been enough precipitation, trickling creeks to liven up the senses. Soon, though, you’ll come along the flank of a deep canyon, and as you contour around its upper reaches, you will begin to gradually lose altitude as you approach more closely the junction that you had passed all those miles ago. When you reach the junction, turn right, crossing back over the dry creek and campground to your awaiting automobile. Congratulations! You just hiked 20 miles and vanquished one of the three monsters of Palomar Mountain.

Things to Know:

• As this is wilderness, there are certain rules to abide by. First, there is no mountain biking allowed, which hikers may love. Second, you do not need to gain a permit for dayhiking, but you will need to get a permit for backpacking.
• It is not likely that there will be any water present on the trail. If you do backpack this trail, or if you take it as a complete 20 mile hike, bring at least a gallon to six liters of water for all of your needs. It’s not likely you’ll find any more unless it has been exceptionally rainy.
• Dogs are allowed here, but do make sure that your dog is sufficiently well-conditioned to climb the 14 miles there and back from Dripping Springs Campground. The hike is much less fun if you have to strap your pooch to your back.
• Know that the trailhead lies in Riverside County, and parts of the trail are in Riverside County.